Hill Towns of Istria

I had imagined a scenic day meandering through a rolling countryside dotted with picturesque hill-topped towns. I had envisioned a leisurely lunch, seated in a leafy central plaza, admiring the sweeping views while tasting the local specialties of truffles, olive oil and wine.

Instead, we turn into the Bickersons, squabbling our way around the nefarious three-pronged roundabouts, fearing for our safety with each speeding Croat roaring past in a belching Fiat on the narrow, twisty roads, before we finally stop to wolf down a cheese-roll in the parking lot of a mini-market.

We eventually do find our way to the storied hill-town of Motovun, where we pay 20 kuna to park in a make-shift parking lot, and stagger around between the ubiquitous gift shops in the fading light of the late afternoon sun.

The vistas are incredible, the steep, cobbled streets breathtaking, and the ancient, crumbling structures positively medieval. I may have missed lunch, but I got my money shot…